Ice climbing is a new tourist-puller at Manali and Lahaul-Spiti in India’s Himachal Pradesh state. The temperature dipping many notches below the freezing point is creating perfect conditions for ice climbing in the area where waterfalls and water streams are freezing completely.
Gulaba and Marhi area of Manali and entire Lahaul-Spiti district has become winter destination for ice climbers — both professionals and novice. The sub-zero temperature between December and mid-March is perfect for the adventure activity. Easy approach, trained guides and easy availability of all facilities have helped in popularising this activity in the Himalayas. Earlier Spiti and Manali were preferred destinations for ice climbing in winter seasons. As Atal tunnel has provided winter access to Lahaul valley for the first time this year (2020), Lahaul has emerged as the best destination for ice climbing.
Over a hundred waterfalls and water streams have frozen in Lahaul-Spiti district alone. While there are small frozen falls for newbies, there are a few frozen falls for professional climbers that are as high as 250m. The temperature in Lahaul valley and upper Gulaba and Marhi areas of Manali falls as low as minus 15 to minus 20 degrees Celsius in winters while it plunges below minus 20 degrees Celsius in Spiti valley.
Ice climbing aspirants head to Himachal to learn ice climbing techniques from the trained guides. Most guides are trained from Manali based Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports (ABVIMAS). Many professional climbers from India and abroad also visit Himachal to prove their mettle.
Ice climbing can be practiced independently or as part of a mountaineering expedition. Glaciers and frozen waterfalls are by far the most popular ice climbing venues in Himachal. Many versatile ice climbers also practice mixed climbing– a variation of ice climbing that involves climbing on ice, rock and snow. While climbing frozen falls is possible in winter months only, practicing ice climbing on frozen glaciers is possible here round the year.
Best time for ice climbing in Himachal (Manali/Lahaul)
Mid-December to February end is the best time for ice climbing. Sometimes, it is possible even in first half of the March is temperature remains below freezing point. However, ice climbing on frozen glaciers is possible 12 months a year.
Safety and security
All the ice climbing safety protocols are followed strictly to ensure safety of the climbers. Genuine climbing gear and equipment are used. Just as with rock climbing, you need to place protection as you go to protect yourself in case of a slip. Anchors allow you to belay your climbing partner and to rappel back down from a climb. This section covers some of the tools and methods that ice climbers use for protection.
Equipment for ice climbing
Ice climbing is not possible without some technical gear which are required for both climbing and to protect you from the cold besides your safety.
Ice climbing equipment checklist:
- Insulated ice climbing boots
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet
- Crampons to fit your boots
- Ice axes
- Belay device
- Carabiners
- Ice screws
- Rope
- Quickdraws
- Gore-Tex gloves
- Eye protection
- Wind cheaters/Wollens
Common crampon techniques for ice climbing
Though it’s possible to climb low-angle ice by using rough features or by chopping steps with an ice axe, at a certain point crampons need to be used for efficiency and safety.
French technique: Also known as flat-footing on ice, this is the preferred technique for low-angle to moderately steep ice (slopes up to about 40°). All crampon points but the very front are kept in contact with the ice for traction. This is the most efficient way to travel over hard snow or ice. On lower-angle ice, climbing is simply a matter of pointing your feet uphill and planting them solidly, including your heels. As the slope angle increases, climbing requires greater ankle flexibility. It is easier to turn your toes outward to walk ducklike in order to keep the feet flat. On steeper slopes, you can progress diagonally up a slope with all points in, but with toes pointing across the slope or even slightly downhill.
Eventually, it becomes necessary to sidestep up the slope. To do this, plant your uphill foot solidly, then cross your lower foot over it and plant solidly. This cross-over upward progression requires care, as it is easy to catch your crampon points on the opposite boot, gaiter or crampon straps. It is important in the French technique to plant all points except the front 2. It is tempting to try to “edge” into a slope, placing only the inner row of points and leaving the outer points in the air. This is easier on your ankles, but your crampons can skate over the ice, allowing you to skate down the slope.
German technique: This is more commonly known as front-pointing, due to the fact that only the front-facing crampon points come in contact with the ice. It’s commonly used on slopes of about 45° and up. The climber faces the slope and kicks his toes in to plant the 2 or 4 front points. It is the most direct way to ascend a steep slope but also the hardest on calf muscles since only the crampon frames support your feet. Unlike French technique, which takes some practice to get the footwork down, German technique is fairly straightforward. Kick, plant the front points, stand. Your body weight must rest on the few sharp points of your crampons and tools, so secure footholds are essential.
Combined technique: One way to make climbing moderately steep ice more comfortable is to mix the German technique (or toe-in to the slope) with flat-footing. This combination technique is known as the “3 o’clock position” or “pied troisieme” and is usually less tiring than straight flat-footing. It involves planting the front points of one foot while keeping the other foot splayed out to the side, sole flat against the slope.
What not to do
Try not to kick repeatedly to set the crampon points. This and kicking too hard are not only tiring, but can weaken the ice you’re standing on. You learn quickly enough about “dinner plates,” or flakes of ice that come crashing out when you’re too rough with tools or crampons. Another tendency is to keep one’s heels up too high, allowing the front points to pop out. Lowering your heels leverages the front points farther into the ice and will help to avoid an unnecessary slip. This is especially important at the end of a steep section or a pitch that ends in a shelf or on flatter terrain.
Updated on December 23, 2020
Frozen waterfalls invite ice climbers to Lahaul valley
With dozens of frozen waterfalls and water streams inviting adventure enthusiasts to Lahaul valley of Himachal, ice climbing is the new activity in the valley where average temperature has plunged below minus 10 degrees C.
Over a hundred small and large waterfalls and water streams have frozen completely in entire Lahaul-Spiti district. The visitors are getting to see the wonders of nature for the first time in winter season thanks to Atal tunnel. Local youths from the valley, who had no work to do in winter season, are promoting winter tourism and want mountaineers, especially ice climbing enthusiasts, to visit Lahaul.
Sunil Bodh, who runs an adventure tourism agency at Keylong, said, “I and my friends have explored a large number of frozen waterfalls and streams where ice climbing is possible for both professionals and novices. The valley being huge in geographical area, we could explore only 25 per cent of it so far. This is a happy moment for us that climbers have started to head to the valley. We are promoting our frozen falls extensively through social media and all available resources. The frozen waterfalls are leaving everybody surprised.”
Most of the frozen waterfalls are along Bhaga river, a tributary of Chenab, from Keylong towards Baralacha. The largest frozen waterfall, measuring about 250m in length, has been found near Meh village. Many such ice formations have been found in Commander nullah.
“Possibly there will be even bigger frozen falls in the valley. Almost all the nullahs and rivulets meeting with the Bhaga river are forming similar ice structure, mostly near to their confluence. The temperature here is too low that even we can make the frozen fall at area of our choice after pouring water,” another youth Rahul Thakur said.
Local trained climbers have planned to conduct training camps for other youths of the valley with help from Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). The residents are happy that winter tourism will produce livelihood opportunities for the residents. While a few climbers have already booked the activity, a limited number of tourists are expected to visit the valley this year but number is expected to multiply in the next season.
The activity, which is not possible everywhere in the country, is believed to be the major winter tourism activity in Lahaul in future similar to Chadar trek of Ladakh where tourists throng for trek over frozen Zanskar river. The local youths are inviting all enthusiasts from the world for their firsthand experience with winters of Lahaul.
Updated on January 18, 2018
Now visit Manali to climb frozen waterfalls
Ice climbing, especially on frozen waterfalls, draws a large number of professionals to Canada, the US and Europe. This is for the first time that huge frozen waterfalls have been explored in the upper reaches of Manali, some of which could be largest frozen falls in the world, formed in prevailing cold conditions.
While adventure sports promoter Red Bull recently claimed that ace ice climber Will Gadd has become the first to ascend the frozen part of 51m (168ft) high Niagara Falls, adventure sports channel 4play claims Manali region has many frozen falls, some having heights up to 75m (250ft). The 4play team which includes professional climbers organized “Screwed Up Fest” to promote ice climbing in the country and attempted many frozen falls. The team has filmed the thrilling shots of the climbing.
“The area has frozen waterfalls ranging between 50ft to 250ft. We need government help to promote them so that climbers from across the world come here to test their nerves,” 4play team member Sukrit Gupta said. He added that they had filmed an attempt to climb frozen falls at Spiti two years back. “Falls in Manali are easy to reach with little hiking from the road. We can become the ice climbing hub of the world.”
Pranav Ravat was the ice climbing instructor of the exploration team and Abhilash Mahajan did all arrangements for the team. Prerna Dangi and Abhijeet Singh, both professional climbers, and local climbers Chaman and Dimpal enjoyed scaling the virgin falls.
Sukrit said people have already started enquiring about the locations of the falls and his team is sure Manali will get great tourism opportunities when more and more climbers will head to the town for ice climbing in winter months when hotels generally remain empty. The team runs the only adventure sports channel in the country and promotes the new adventure sports destinations by their mesmerizing short films.
Himachal has received very little snow this season. This is one of the reasons that helped young climbers to explore the upper regions of Manali and reach the frozen falls. “Tourism on hills totally depends on snowfall. No need to worry if we have no snow as we have frozen waterfalls,” Pranav said.
Despite being in huge demand, ice climbing is the most dangerous sport in all of the climbing disciplines. It requires proper training before attempting any climb. Crampons, ice screws, ropes and all ice tools are required for the sport. Though the region is waiting for snowfall, extreme cold conditions have frozen all water sources.
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